“It would be fun to go hiking,” she said, and the wheels began to turn.
Where to go, previously unexplored, yet accessible by public transit?
The famous Benbulbin, overlooking Sligo Town, eventually came out as top choice for a January adventure. Plans were set and some of us arrived in Sligo from Athlone via Longford, others from Ennis via Galway.
From the Bus Éireann station in Sligo, we took the 64 towards Donegal. The driver was kind enough to drop us at the junction on the N15 from which we could walk up a quiet road to the Gortarowey Forest car park. Passing by evergreens and surprisingly large rabbits, overshadowed by Benbulbin’s cloud-draped ridge, we came to a fence at the far end of the forest. We climbed over and began to make our way towards the summit.
Heading towards the gully from the far corner of the Gortarowey Forest
The maps I had found online indicated we could go straight to the top through a gully in the ridge, but as we approached the base of the rock face, still wet from the morning rain, we decided against it - without ropes, a single misstep could be disastrous.
Turning towards the northeast, beyond the ridge face, where the steep terrain grew even steeper and the sheep glared at us for interrupting their bucolic day, we continued upwards.
Despite the smooth, grassy, even terrain, even this part of the journey seemed increasingly dangerous. A misplaced step could lead to a long and painful roll many meters down the mountain slope.
This was intentional. No lads or sheep were harmed.
Half of us made it up above the ridge, where the wind began to howl ferociously. Celebrating victory, we looked northeast towards Benwiskin, then turned back south to find Benbulbin’s summit. There, at 526 meters above sea level, we found a simple pillar, and took photographs.
Delighted to reach another summit!
We attempted to hide from the wind, sheltered by the bank of a crater in the bog, but the cold soon got the better of us. Abandoning plans to walk out along the plates to Ben Bulben’s western point, we began to make our way down the southwestern slope - the terrain more difficult, but far less steep than our ascent. For you future explorers - we recommend this route!
From the ridgeline looking towards Benwiskin
Following a stream, we came to a gap in the fence and found ourselves once again on a country road, passing farms and holiday homes. Rejoining the rest of our party, we decided to walk the ten kilometers back to Sligo, as no bus was due to pass through for another 2.5 hours.
Exhausted, we celebrated with pizza at Bistro Bianconi, happy to have had the adventure.
Planning your Hike to Benbulbin
There are very few clear trails on the mountain, and you will likely have to make your own way, dodging sheep droppings and ankle-twisting holes hidden by bog grasses.
Wear sturdy waterproof shoes!
Budget approximately 4 to 5 hours to hike to the summit, wander the plateau, and return.
Bring lots of water and even an emergency blanket in case of hypothermia-inducing conditions.
It can be very windy, and weather can change quickly.
If taking public transit (Bus Eireann 64 towards Derry), ask the driver to drop you here. Check the schedule so you know when pickup will be! We discovered there are few buses during midday.
If driving, you can part at the Gortarowey Forest car park.
I suggest walking along the road to the gap in the fence and walking up along the stream as seen in the map below. This hill has the gentler ascent of the two, with no need for rock climbing gear.
1. Junction on the N15 for dropoff from Public Transit. 2. Gortarowey Forest Car Park. 3. Turn off the road here and follow a dirt road and then a stream up the mountain for the least steep ascent.
Remember, it may be very windy on the plateau, and the weather changes fast! Bring appropriate wind and raingear.
Leave no trace: pack any rubbish with you back to town.
Enjoy your hike and the beautiful views!
Photographing on the southwestern slope, Sligo in the distance beneath the setting sun.
See more of my Ireland photography at this link. Prints available for purchase!
